Trip Report from July 2005 - part 2

Travel discussion for St. John
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nothintolose
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Trip Report from July 2005 - part 2

Post by nothintolose »

Okay - this part should be a little better.

Saturday, July 16, 2006

I forgot to mention the car trip before we went to Drunk Bay...

After we got the Montero (much bigger than the Escape we had been driving around), we took Centerline and stopped for several pictures and planned to look at the shops by Chateau Bordeaux for something my sister had seen there the previous summer but didn't get and now wanted. The shops were closed so we just took some pics. EJF decided he wanted to take some road off of the main road to Coral Bay to go explore. I don't really like going off the main roads - especially in the "mountains". Keep in mind that in Lousiana EVERYTHING is flat. There are no hills or steep roads. Well here we are on this road (same turn you take to Concordia but off to the left). Well we ended up at a villa that dead ends and there is steep cliff where you have to turn around. Needless to say my knuckles were white by the time we were finished. It took forever to turn that big ole thing around on the road, and I was sure we were going to plung to our death.

So anyway, after our lunch at Island Blues we drove to the East End. We went all the way to the end of the road and were sad to see that where someone had painted "Stay Left Mon" was mostly faded away. He also took us up that road where they are building something that looks like another Peter Bay type place. Those roads are also very steep!

On the way back towards Coral Bay, we saw a park ranger and asked him how to get to Haulover North, and he pointed us in the direction. We hiked the short path seeing hermit crabs everywhere along the way. All of the wet abandoned clothes was really freaky. We had heard they were from illegal immigrants being dropped off. It was a coral beach with beautiful views but we decided it was too rough to snorkel.

We got back in the car and drove to the other part of the island. Stopped by Ristaba Villa in Chocolate Hole North where we had stayed with my whole family (all 17 of us) the previous summer. Didn't go in or anything - just looked at it. Drove all over Chocolate Hole and Rendevous Bay. We drove all of the way out to the end of the road going east on the South side. We got to the Half Moon House that overlooks Reef Bay and enjoyed the view before having to do another turn around maneuver to get out. We think you could see all the way to Lameshur and Ram Head from there. Then we drove to Gift Hill and then back to Centerline. We had to use 4WD on the Montero on the regular roads because it slipped alot.

That night we went to The Lime Inn for dinner hoping to get the mussels that my uncle raved about, but they were out. I had Tuna with wasabi mayo and EJF had shrimp and scallop scampi. The food was okay.

Sunday, July 17, 2005 - Our last full day in paradise

Decided to snorkel Cinnamon again but this time around the island. We had been hearing stories about the nurse shark that is around the island so we were expecting to see another nurse shark. As soon as we got near the island, we saw about a 3.5 foot barracuda. They used to scare me but I haven't seen one as big as the first one I saw on our first trip that looked about 3/4 my size at Salt Pond. EJF was fascinated by watching as the pelicans hit the water from under the water and was very distracted by everything else. That sound when they hit the water (if you're not expecting it) can scare the crap out of you! Anyway, another guy snorkeled by and I thought it was EJF so I was following him when I saw the shark. Well, this wasn't the same kind of shark we had seen the last two times. I don't know what kind it was (tried to figure it out last summer but never did), but it was different. It initially seemed disinterested. I realized the guy was not EJF and swam back to get him to show him the shark. He was close to the island watching the pelicans still. He saw it from where he was but for some reason was more interested in the pelicans. Well I looked at it and noticed it come back and look at us then swim off. That freaked me out more than a little bit. I convinced EJF that it was time to go to the other side of the island. We did and I couldn't have been happier to get away from the Maho side which was deeper and darker.

So he's back to watching the pelicans dive when he yells something to me and scares me. He was pointing out a big tarpon. EJF said at the time it looked to be about 60lbs (don't know how long that makes it). It was the biggest fish we had seen besides the sharks. It was exciting though and it hung around the island. We watched it for a while then headed back to the beach. Stopped to watch a small turtle swimming around for a while.

Went back to Island Blues for lunch. I had been having the daily special quesadillas whenever we went there, and they were always AWESOME. The last one was particularly good even though it may not sound it. It was a choizo chicken, asparagus and jack cheese one, and it was good.

Decided to make Trunk Bay our last snorkel since it was our first as well. It was early evening and there was really not many people out there. When we got around the island there were tons and tons of bait fish (not sure what they are called - maybe fry). There were so many that when they would swim around you it would give me claustrophobia because you couldn't see much past them. It made me nervous because I know big fish eat the little fish. I also have to say that I think of the fish that formed shapes in Finding Nemo every time I am near them. We saw the same Queen Angel Fish we had seen the first day. It was so beautiful.

Well I was watching EJF swimming in the bait fish. I was on the outside because I couldn't stand being in the middle of them. Well all of the sudden I saw a gigantic tarpon! EJF later said it was about 5 feet long and about 100lbs. Well I am 5'3" so it looked mighty big to me. We he turned around and saw it, it turned around and headed right for me. I was scared it was going to run into me, but it didn't. It veered off when it got close. We came across a second one with a remora attached to it. It was almost as big but not as big as the other one. EJF said he saw a 3rd one, but I never did. I could not believe how big they were. They moved so slow too. I am sure they could go fast, but they were just cruising the area. We watched them for a long time and showed them to anyone that came near us. It was AWESOME!!!! What a great way to end our snorkeling!

By the time we got out, it had started raining. Some people were getting married on the beach and their wedding party got soaked.

We decided to have dinner at La Tapa that night since the lady that had let me pet her boxer had been so friendly. We wanted to send our business her way. Lauren from Estate Lindholm said the food was good there too. We started with just appetizers: the bread with the 3 sauces, the cheese board, steamed calamari and escargot and shittake mushrooms. All of it was excellent. We liked it because we were allowed to take our time and eat at our liesure. That's the way we eat and dine out here. It was a great last day.

Monday, July 18th, 2005 - Our last day

Had our breakfast at EL one last time then packed up and drove around taking more pictures. Greg at Courtesy said we could keep the car till we wanted to return it (no extra charge) because it was not reserved for that day. He is always so nice! We went to The Beach Bar for one last meal and mango colada. Usually I drink pain killers but was on a mango colada trip this time. I had the Tuna Down now and EJF had the ribeye steak sandwhich with blue cheese.

Took the CA ferry back and it was hot as heck this time - guess because it was in the heat of the day. We had to pay for our luggage this time. Didn't have to when we left STT. No big deal.

That trip was so peaceful and amazing. It was nice to be there just the two of us. We also like introducing STJ to other peeps but it was nice not to have to worry about what everyone else is doing.

That plane ride back was the first plane ride since the 90's that I did not take any drugs to fly. I was so relaxed that I decided to try it and was okay. I can't tell you how at peace I was with everything. I am so thankful for that time we had there. I hope we can get back. Next summer I am hoping to get there one way or another.

Thanks for reading my report and letting me do it for me. I have been wanting to do it for a long time now. I am sure all of the info is outdated - maybe the some of the fish are still hanging out in those places.

nothintolose
Coden
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Post by Coden »

My gosh, I was right there with you with all of the Big fish. How scary!! Now that I'll be able to see, once I get my prescription mask that is, I hope I don't freak out over the size of the fish!! Yikes!!

Thnx for the TR - it is very much appreciated.
Coden
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Jan&MikeVa
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Post by Jan&MikeVa »

Thank you for the wonderful report, sounds like you guys had a VERY RELAXING visit. I've already printed out the report for Mike to read tonight.

We are so close to booking for December, I just need a little something to push hubby over the edge so he says "BOOK IT". Your TR might do the trick!

I love the quesadillas at Island Blues too. I've had ham & pinneaple, and pork with apple, my mouth is watering for one right now!!!

Jan
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Tracy in WI
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Post by Tracy in WI »

Thanks so much for the great trip report. I wish all the best in your neck of the woods - we continually pray for you all from up here in WI.

Tracy
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liamsaunt
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Post by liamsaunt »

Awesome report! We also saw huge tarpon at Trunk Bay on the last night of our 2005 trip. In fact, while reading your account, I went upstairs and checked our scrapbook to see when we were there--it was June, so maybe we saw the same fish.

Thanks for sharing.
It's like looking in your soup and finding a whole different alphabet.
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Robin in NC
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Loved the report

Post by Robin in NC »

I purposely saved the second half of your report after reading the first to savor the experience longer. Been a dry spell for reports, and yours was so refreshing. Of course, your account of the sharks and other big fish was a little unsettling, but very interesting still. Thanks for keeping us all entertained!

Robin
California Girl

Post by California Girl »

Absolutely LOVED your trip report! You had some great fish sightings! It sounds like it was an extremely relaxing, unstructured vacation... can't wait to get there myself! :D
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nothintolose
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Post by nothintolose »

liamsaunt - I would think it may have been the same tarpon of the same shark supposedly hung around Cinnamon but couldn't be sure - all I know is that they were HUGE. They weren't scary though. They were neat to watch just swim back and forth. We followed them a long time before going in.

Robin - that shark at Cinnamon creeped me out because I swear it came back and checked us out but the others didn't thanks to Lauren's explanation.

CaliforniaGirl - defintely relaxing - thank God we had that trip!

Tracy in WI - thanks for your prayers, and hey...can you send my two best friends that evacuated to Racine, WI back down here...I miss the heck out of them???? Just joking - wish it were possible.

Everyone thanks for the nice comments and sorry the report is so old. I bet those quesadillas at Island Blues still rock though.

nothintolose
Tuxedocat
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Post by Tuxedocat »

Absolutely great trip report. I know that Saltpond barracuda well. It was the first one my husband ever saw and he was a bit freaked out by its size and the fact that it did not seem the least bit intimidated by humans. Also, I've had the good luck to happen upon that school of tarpon. I'm 5'3" also and they are as big as me. That shark was creepy. I've been told that it's common to see reef shark, which are not aggressive, but that there are also bull and tiger sharks which can be aggressive towards humans. There hasn't been a reported shark attack in the Virgin Islands in a long long time, and I hope there won't be. The theory is that the VI water is clearer and they can see that we are not seals for meals. Thanks again. I'm heading "home" to STJ in a couple of days for a short stay. I'll look for those fish.
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MikeB
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Post by MikeB »

Thanks for the great trip report.

When we were sailing, we actually caught a barracuda on the fishing line. Before releasing him back to the water we got a pretty good look at those teeth. Wow!

These guys are at the top of their food chain and nothing seems to bother them. They're very inquisitive and I'm told will leave you alone if you don't spook them.
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nothintolose
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Post by nothintolose »

Tuxedocat - when we got back to New Orleans in the middle of August, we went to the local aquarium which had a HUGE shark tank.

From looking at all of the sharks I remember ruling out Bull Sharks (especially noting them because of all of the attacks in Florida) and Tiger Sharks. I think it was a reef shark. It definitely wasn't a nurse shark either.

Hope you see those huge tarpon when you are there; they were so amazing. I will never forget them.

nothintolose
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nothintolose
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Post by nothintolose »

MikeB - I can't believe you caught the Barracuda without it cutting your line. Those teeth seem crazy enough in the water. I would be worried it would flip around on the boat and cut me.

Your trip report was great! We stayed in Ristaba in 2004 with my whole family. Liked it alot. Glad you liked the other villa too. It's always a gamble.

Would love to do the sailboat charter overnight like you did.

nothintolose
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