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Kauai Trip Report Part 4 - North Shore
Kauai Trip Report Part 4 - North Shore
Breakfast at the quasi-Bohemian Small Town Coffee in Kapaa. We had bagel sandwiches = 2 Mexican egg and one veggie egg. Pretty good but kinda pricey, very small coffees with no refills – only full price for refill. What’s up with that? Wouldn’t it even make sense to offer refills at say $1 each?
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/v ... site"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8sFa ... 59-001.JPG" height="428" width="640"></a>
Head out to North Shore – make stops at overlooks, then one lane bridge, the girls shop the Hanalei outdoor market while I take some pictures of the highly photogenic Waioli Huiia Church. I would be quite happy to just set myself up in a lawn chair across the street from that church and watch the sun and clouds play across the mountains in the background.
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/o ... site"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-eNOF ... 67-001.JPG" height="426" width="640"></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/2 ... site"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-iM8C ... 17-001.JPG" height="360" width="640"></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/3 ... site"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-YfBZ ... 76-001.JPG" height="242" width="640"></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/4 ... site"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ZHk5 ... ge-001.JPG" height="267" width="400"></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/r ... site"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-eWlj ... 91-001.JPG" height="328" width="800"></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/7 ... site"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-kLeC ... 29-001.JPG" height="324" width="800"></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/L ... site"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MyML ... 74-001.JPG" height="535" width="800"></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/f ... site"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bCCQ ... 80-001.JPG" height="535" width="800"></a>
Drive all the way out to Ke’e Beach. Crowded parking, lots of roosters and chicks. We tackle the 2 mile out/2 mile back Kalalau Trail hike to Hanakapiai Beach.
While we are not “hikers”, my wife and I do daily fast pace walks of 30-45 min and my daughter is a runner, so we are all in decent physical condition. I thought we had a good idea of what to anticipate, but were still a little surprised at how challenging it was if you don’t want to take all day to do it (not that we were passing by tons of people on the trail). As a non-hiker, the thing you don’t anticipate is not necessarily the physical aspect of the hike, but the mental aspect i.e. the concentration required to carefully navigate the slippery rock and root strewn sections, thinking “Jeez if I step wrong here or have my foot slip off this rock, I could twist an ankle pretty bad and screw up the rest of my vacation”.
Also, in retrospect, at the risk of rubbing the hikers and adventurers the wrong way and/or seeming somewhat wimp-ish, I would argue that for some it is totally not necessary to go all the way down to Hanakapiai Beach. IMO the “payoff” at that beach is not worth the extra effort of that last descent, stream/rock crossing to the beach, and ascent back up. When you get to the part of the trail where you can finally see the beach and it starts to descend to it, that could be a good spot to turn around and save yourself a good 45+ minutes and the extra mental and physical effort associated with that, perhaps making the overall experience less arduous and more pleasant. That said, quite awesome vistas along this trail.
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/3 ... site"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-zjgC ... 31-001.JPG" height="480" width="640"></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/b ... site"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ugG8 ... 26-001.JPG" height="640" width="533"></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/f ... site"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ghsb ... 51-001.JPG" height="462" width="800"></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Q ... site"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-P_XR ... 06-001.JPG" height="640" width="475"></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/U ... site"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/--qXq ... 75-001.JPG" height="640" width="454"></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/g ... site"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3Uz- ... 05-001.JPG" height="640" width="640"></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/7 ... site"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-7Hmf ... 38-001.JPG" height="607" width="640"></a>
We couldn’t help but make a comparison to another awesome, even longer, but maybe not quite as arduous coastal hike we did last year in the Cinque Terre in Italy. But the nicer thing about that one is that it is ONE WAY and a charming village awaits you at the end with awesome pesto focaccia-like pizza, wine, and the best gelato - LOL.
After the Kalalau hike, we were hungry and thirsty so headed back towards Hanalei to a fruit stand where we supplemented our Cliff Bars with large waters, 2 chocolate dipped bananas rolled in mac nuts, a pineapple/strawberry/banana/guava smoothie, and a chocolate banana milkshake. My daughter says the running magazines claim that bananas and chocolate milk are good post workout stuff to have and I would have to say it did hit the spot and help us recover quickly.
Then we backtracked a bit for some quality beach time (reading, relaxing, swimming) at beautiful Lumaha’i Beach.
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/N ... site"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-i-hc ... 96-001.JPG" height="600" width="800"></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/0 ... site"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-iT7- ... 88-001.JPG" height="640" width="480"></a>
After beach time, we drive along Hanalei Bay and stop near the pier for a bit of a walkabout, then get back to the condo to get ready for dinner reservation at Hukilau Lanai. Waiting area is a bit of a odd hybrid of lounge/bar/hotel lobby, but we did have a great Wailea Bay Breeze drink: pineapple vodka/pineapple juice/cranberry juice drink. Finally seated after short wait. Dining tables look out on a nice lit tiki torch area, we have really good focaccia bread and salads that came with entrees, plus awesome cashew crusted Opah with mashed potatoes, panko breaded Mahi with mashed potatoes, and a veggie lasagna – all really really good, especially that Opah.
Next day is Mothers Day so daughter and I up early and to round up some surprise goodies. First stop is the shopping area by the Shell station intending to stop at bakeries but both are closed, so we go down to Small Town Coffee to get bagels and baked goods, but not coffee because yesterday we thought they were too small.
There is an odd bit of shuffling around to get the bagels which they finally hand over and ring me up @ $14.25 for the 3 bagels, a blueberry muffin and a piece of banana cake. Really? I’m taken aback at that which is hard to do because we are not inexperienced travelers and do on occasion indulge ourselves in pricey “artisan” pizza back home in NJ; brunch in Greenwich Village in NYC; etc. etc. and so we are somewhat immune to sticker shock. Anyways, I don’t want to be the ugly tourist so I don’t challenge at the register but as I’m walking away I am trying to do the math in my head since the prices on non-menu items weren’t clearly marked, and at about the same time realize that the bag holding the bagels is cold. What? Frozen bagels at that price? Give me a friggin break.
So I allow myself to go off (limited to 5 minutes) on that whole tattooed/organic/Boho-chic vibe they are peddling there. And The Guidebook That Shall Not Be Named opines that this is the place where “diehard regulars hang out solving the worlds problems among themselves” Really? At those prices? And, you can't even get your coffee refilled? Makes you wonder if the regulars/locals are treated differently here. Sorry for the mini-rant – I just don’t like feeling ripped off.
In another effort to go local we had also intended to get those great lattes again from Dolphin Espresso but that was closed too, so we said screw it - lets go to Starbucks for the big coffees. Also picked up a cute Hawaii themed mug there.
We also had to run into Safeway and Longs as we wanted to get some small juices to help maybe re-create that excellent Wailea Bay Breeze drink we had at Hukilau Lanai. Saw the $.69 bagels in Safeway and joked that Small Town probably buys their bagels there, freezes them, and unloads them on unsuspecting tourists at a 200% mark up.
Also picked up a bag of Hawaiian Host Dark Chocolate Macadamias. Holy smokes are they GREAT. And we are kinda dark chocolate snobs – a trip to Switzerland in 2005 spoiled us forever.
Finally back at the condo my wife appreciates our efforts and we need to toast our semi-frozen BoHo-chic bagels in order to eat them. Pretty average bagels. At least we had found our fav Kerry Gold Irish butter in Safeway to go with them. I wonder what they would’ve charged at Small Town for a few pats of extra organic hand churned butter from gently milked lei wearing cows? LOL
Drive out to North Shore to spend some time on lovely Tunnels Beach. I finally get a chance to do some snorkeling and confirmed what I had anticipated – it doesn’t compare well to the snorkeling you find in the USVI and BVI. I did spend some time with some turtles on the way back in and got some decent photos of them so that made it worthwhile. We enjoy our beach time with our books and my recreation of the Wailea Bay Breeze I had prepared.
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/3 ... site"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RXJM ... 20-001.JPG" height="600" width="800"></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/A ... site"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-UZRb ... 29-002.JPG" height="535" width="800"></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/5 ... site"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-lAtv ... 33-002.JPG" height="640" width="427"></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/O ... site"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Bwu5 ... 47-002.JPG" height="534" width="800"></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Q ... site"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ZmHF ... 13-002.JPG" height="428" width="640"></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/m ... site"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-M2zl ... 36-001.JPG" height="573" width="800"></a>
Leave beach for late lunch in Hanalei at Dolphin Fish Market. Very nice seating outside near river in full view of mountains. We had salad with Cajun marlin, salad with Cajun Ahi, and a Cajun Marlin sandwich washed down with reasonably priced ice cold tall Japanese bottled beers. The fish was super fresh and perfectly cooked with an exceptionally tasty version of Cajun spices. Others have noted here recently that they thought this place was too expensive. Yup, not cheap by any means but we thought the quality received was worth it. Often we find lunch to be a much better value at higher end or “gourmet” restaurants - also the reason we had lunch at the Beach House on the south shore on Day 2. And when we do a pricy lunch like these, we try back off on a dinner to help manage the budget.
After lunch we just kind of meander along back towards the condo while cranking our island playlist. Thats always great on STJ too - windows down, turn it up!
Go into St. Regis area, consider humping down to Hideaways Beach, but really limited parking, long walk down (and our legs would bark at that from the previous day Kalalau trail hike). We do enjoy great view of coast from top of the stairs to Hideaways. Check out Anini Beach – pretty crowded with locals, nice view of lighthouse at end. Drive down to lighthouse – nice view.
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/z ... site"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-1WA5 ... _b-001.jpg" height="629" width="502"></a>
Back in Kapaa begin to realize dinner choices very limited because possibilities Monico’s and Eastside both closed, and we get to Café Coco when it is open (stopped by other times when closed and could never find menu). The hostess kind of gives us the stinkeye when she thinks we were going there to sit down immediately looking like we just came from beach (which we had, but we weren’t). We are told that Mother’s Day special is a “$50 per person Farm to Table pre fix menu”. There is some really odd stuff such as duck ragout so the price point and funky choices make it easy to eliminate that place.
So back to condo to shower and decide to go back to Mermaid Café. Unfortunately, it seemed like the “B” team was at the counter and in kitchen, and they were out of numerous important items so all 3 of us get stir fry - 2 with chicken, one with tofu - as a change up from the loads of fish we’ve been eating. Pretty average, not super flavorful, but at least with lots of fresh veggies and not too oily or salty.
Dessert at Lappert’s Ice Cream in that semi-vacant Coconut Marketplace. Moms get free scoop so she gets chocolate mac nut and daughter gets Kona coffee swirled with chocolate sorbet - both excellent. I save my desert calories for those awesome dark choc covered mac nuts back at the condo.
Probably only about 75% done editing and uploading, otherwise would’ve wrapped up with last day in Kauai before we fly off to San Francisco for 3 days, so I may have a short wrap up still to write. Thanks for indulging me so far!
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/v ... site"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8sFa ... 59-001.JPG" height="428" width="640"></a>
Head out to North Shore – make stops at overlooks, then one lane bridge, the girls shop the Hanalei outdoor market while I take some pictures of the highly photogenic Waioli Huiia Church. I would be quite happy to just set myself up in a lawn chair across the street from that church and watch the sun and clouds play across the mountains in the background.
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/o ... site"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-eNOF ... 67-001.JPG" height="426" width="640"></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/2 ... site"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-iM8C ... 17-001.JPG" height="360" width="640"></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/3 ... site"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-YfBZ ... 76-001.JPG" height="242" width="640"></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/4 ... site"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ZHk5 ... ge-001.JPG" height="267" width="400"></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/r ... site"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-eWlj ... 91-001.JPG" height="328" width="800"></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/7 ... site"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-kLeC ... 29-001.JPG" height="324" width="800"></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/L ... site"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MyML ... 74-001.JPG" height="535" width="800"></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/f ... site"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bCCQ ... 80-001.JPG" height="535" width="800"></a>
Drive all the way out to Ke’e Beach. Crowded parking, lots of roosters and chicks. We tackle the 2 mile out/2 mile back Kalalau Trail hike to Hanakapiai Beach.
While we are not “hikers”, my wife and I do daily fast pace walks of 30-45 min and my daughter is a runner, so we are all in decent physical condition. I thought we had a good idea of what to anticipate, but were still a little surprised at how challenging it was if you don’t want to take all day to do it (not that we were passing by tons of people on the trail). As a non-hiker, the thing you don’t anticipate is not necessarily the physical aspect of the hike, but the mental aspect i.e. the concentration required to carefully navigate the slippery rock and root strewn sections, thinking “Jeez if I step wrong here or have my foot slip off this rock, I could twist an ankle pretty bad and screw up the rest of my vacation”.
Also, in retrospect, at the risk of rubbing the hikers and adventurers the wrong way and/or seeming somewhat wimp-ish, I would argue that for some it is totally not necessary to go all the way down to Hanakapiai Beach. IMO the “payoff” at that beach is not worth the extra effort of that last descent, stream/rock crossing to the beach, and ascent back up. When you get to the part of the trail where you can finally see the beach and it starts to descend to it, that could be a good spot to turn around and save yourself a good 45+ minutes and the extra mental and physical effort associated with that, perhaps making the overall experience less arduous and more pleasant. That said, quite awesome vistas along this trail.
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/3 ... site"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-zjgC ... 31-001.JPG" height="480" width="640"></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/b ... site"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ugG8 ... 26-001.JPG" height="640" width="533"></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/f ... site"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ghsb ... 51-001.JPG" height="462" width="800"></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Q ... site"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-P_XR ... 06-001.JPG" height="640" width="475"></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/U ... site"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/--qXq ... 75-001.JPG" height="640" width="454"></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/g ... site"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3Uz- ... 05-001.JPG" height="640" width="640"></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/7 ... site"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-7Hmf ... 38-001.JPG" height="607" width="640"></a>
We couldn’t help but make a comparison to another awesome, even longer, but maybe not quite as arduous coastal hike we did last year in the Cinque Terre in Italy. But the nicer thing about that one is that it is ONE WAY and a charming village awaits you at the end with awesome pesto focaccia-like pizza, wine, and the best gelato - LOL.
After the Kalalau hike, we were hungry and thirsty so headed back towards Hanalei to a fruit stand where we supplemented our Cliff Bars with large waters, 2 chocolate dipped bananas rolled in mac nuts, a pineapple/strawberry/banana/guava smoothie, and a chocolate banana milkshake. My daughter says the running magazines claim that bananas and chocolate milk are good post workout stuff to have and I would have to say it did hit the spot and help us recover quickly.
Then we backtracked a bit for some quality beach time (reading, relaxing, swimming) at beautiful Lumaha’i Beach.
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/N ... site"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-i-hc ... 96-001.JPG" height="600" width="800"></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/0 ... site"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-iT7- ... 88-001.JPG" height="640" width="480"></a>
After beach time, we drive along Hanalei Bay and stop near the pier for a bit of a walkabout, then get back to the condo to get ready for dinner reservation at Hukilau Lanai. Waiting area is a bit of a odd hybrid of lounge/bar/hotel lobby, but we did have a great Wailea Bay Breeze drink: pineapple vodka/pineapple juice/cranberry juice drink. Finally seated after short wait. Dining tables look out on a nice lit tiki torch area, we have really good focaccia bread and salads that came with entrees, plus awesome cashew crusted Opah with mashed potatoes, panko breaded Mahi with mashed potatoes, and a veggie lasagna – all really really good, especially that Opah.
Next day is Mothers Day so daughter and I up early and to round up some surprise goodies. First stop is the shopping area by the Shell station intending to stop at bakeries but both are closed, so we go down to Small Town Coffee to get bagels and baked goods, but not coffee because yesterday we thought they were too small.
There is an odd bit of shuffling around to get the bagels which they finally hand over and ring me up @ $14.25 for the 3 bagels, a blueberry muffin and a piece of banana cake. Really? I’m taken aback at that which is hard to do because we are not inexperienced travelers and do on occasion indulge ourselves in pricey “artisan” pizza back home in NJ; brunch in Greenwich Village in NYC; etc. etc. and so we are somewhat immune to sticker shock. Anyways, I don’t want to be the ugly tourist so I don’t challenge at the register but as I’m walking away I am trying to do the math in my head since the prices on non-menu items weren’t clearly marked, and at about the same time realize that the bag holding the bagels is cold. What? Frozen bagels at that price? Give me a friggin break.
So I allow myself to go off (limited to 5 minutes) on that whole tattooed/organic/Boho-chic vibe they are peddling there. And The Guidebook That Shall Not Be Named opines that this is the place where “diehard regulars hang out solving the worlds problems among themselves” Really? At those prices? And, you can't even get your coffee refilled? Makes you wonder if the regulars/locals are treated differently here. Sorry for the mini-rant – I just don’t like feeling ripped off.
In another effort to go local we had also intended to get those great lattes again from Dolphin Espresso but that was closed too, so we said screw it - lets go to Starbucks for the big coffees. Also picked up a cute Hawaii themed mug there.
We also had to run into Safeway and Longs as we wanted to get some small juices to help maybe re-create that excellent Wailea Bay Breeze drink we had at Hukilau Lanai. Saw the $.69 bagels in Safeway and joked that Small Town probably buys their bagels there, freezes them, and unloads them on unsuspecting tourists at a 200% mark up.
Also picked up a bag of Hawaiian Host Dark Chocolate Macadamias. Holy smokes are they GREAT. And we are kinda dark chocolate snobs – a trip to Switzerland in 2005 spoiled us forever.
Finally back at the condo my wife appreciates our efforts and we need to toast our semi-frozen BoHo-chic bagels in order to eat them. Pretty average bagels. At least we had found our fav Kerry Gold Irish butter in Safeway to go with them. I wonder what they would’ve charged at Small Town for a few pats of extra organic hand churned butter from gently milked lei wearing cows? LOL
Drive out to North Shore to spend some time on lovely Tunnels Beach. I finally get a chance to do some snorkeling and confirmed what I had anticipated – it doesn’t compare well to the snorkeling you find in the USVI and BVI. I did spend some time with some turtles on the way back in and got some decent photos of them so that made it worthwhile. We enjoy our beach time with our books and my recreation of the Wailea Bay Breeze I had prepared.
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/3 ... site"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RXJM ... 20-001.JPG" height="600" width="800"></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/A ... site"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-UZRb ... 29-002.JPG" height="535" width="800"></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/5 ... site"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-lAtv ... 33-002.JPG" height="640" width="427"></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/O ... site"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Bwu5 ... 47-002.JPG" height="534" width="800"></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Q ... site"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ZmHF ... 13-002.JPG" height="428" width="640"></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/m ... site"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-M2zl ... 36-001.JPG" height="573" width="800"></a>
Leave beach for late lunch in Hanalei at Dolphin Fish Market. Very nice seating outside near river in full view of mountains. We had salad with Cajun marlin, salad with Cajun Ahi, and a Cajun Marlin sandwich washed down with reasonably priced ice cold tall Japanese bottled beers. The fish was super fresh and perfectly cooked with an exceptionally tasty version of Cajun spices. Others have noted here recently that they thought this place was too expensive. Yup, not cheap by any means but we thought the quality received was worth it. Often we find lunch to be a much better value at higher end or “gourmet” restaurants - also the reason we had lunch at the Beach House on the south shore on Day 2. And when we do a pricy lunch like these, we try back off on a dinner to help manage the budget.
After lunch we just kind of meander along back towards the condo while cranking our island playlist. Thats always great on STJ too - windows down, turn it up!
Go into St. Regis area, consider humping down to Hideaways Beach, but really limited parking, long walk down (and our legs would bark at that from the previous day Kalalau trail hike). We do enjoy great view of coast from top of the stairs to Hideaways. Check out Anini Beach – pretty crowded with locals, nice view of lighthouse at end. Drive down to lighthouse – nice view.
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/z ... site"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-1WA5 ... _b-001.jpg" height="629" width="502"></a>
Back in Kapaa begin to realize dinner choices very limited because possibilities Monico’s and Eastside both closed, and we get to Café Coco when it is open (stopped by other times when closed and could never find menu). The hostess kind of gives us the stinkeye when she thinks we were going there to sit down immediately looking like we just came from beach (which we had, but we weren’t). We are told that Mother’s Day special is a “$50 per person Farm to Table pre fix menu”. There is some really odd stuff such as duck ragout so the price point and funky choices make it easy to eliminate that place.
So back to condo to shower and decide to go back to Mermaid Café. Unfortunately, it seemed like the “B” team was at the counter and in kitchen, and they were out of numerous important items so all 3 of us get stir fry - 2 with chicken, one with tofu - as a change up from the loads of fish we’ve been eating. Pretty average, not super flavorful, but at least with lots of fresh veggies and not too oily or salty.
Dessert at Lappert’s Ice Cream in that semi-vacant Coconut Marketplace. Moms get free scoop so she gets chocolate mac nut and daughter gets Kona coffee swirled with chocolate sorbet - both excellent. I save my desert calories for those awesome dark choc covered mac nuts back at the condo.
Probably only about 75% done editing and uploading, otherwise would’ve wrapped up with last day in Kauai before we fly off to San Francisco for 3 days, so I may have a short wrap up still to write. Thanks for indulging me so far!
When we come to place where the sea and the sky collide
Throw me over the edge and let my spirit glide
Throw me over the edge and let my spirit glide
Re: Kauai Trip Report Part 4 - North Shore
Oh JMQ, you're bringing back some great memories of our last trip to Kauai... wow, 7 years ago. We hiked out to Hanakapi'ai Beach, and then hooked a left and continued two more miles to Hanakapi'ai Falls. It was such a hard hike, mostly because the red clay soil was so slippery. I don't think we ever got the socks we were wearing clean because it was like walking through a mud pit. I can't remember another 8 miles that took so much out of me. On the way back from Hanakapi'ai Beach to parking lot at Ke'e we were passed by some whipper-snapper surfer dude, running barefoot holding a little boogie board while he was running. Really!?1? Great way to deflate our ego.jmq wrote:We tackle the 2 mile out/2 mile back Kalalau Trail hike to Hanakapiai Beach. While we are not “hikers”, my wife and I do daily fast pace walks of 30-45 min and my daughter is a runner, so we are all in decent physical condition. I thought we had a good idea of what to anticipate, but were still a little surprised at how challenging it was if you don’t want to take all day to do it (not that we were passing by tons of people on the trail). As a non-hiker, the thing you don’t anticipate is not necessarily the physical aspect of the hike, but the mental aspect i.e. the concentration required to carefully navigate the slippery rock and root strewn sections, thinking “Jeez if I step wrong here or have my foot slip off this rock, I could twist an ankle pretty bad and screw up the rest of my vacation”.
The scenery on Kauai is really unmatched. Thank you for taking the time to share it with us.
That happens to be the background image I selected for my desktop. Confirmation that great minds think alike!mbw1024 wrote:All your pictures are great of course but that second one down in this report is a clear favorite so far!
(and perhaps worthy of a canvas print for the wall...)
When we come to place where the sea and the sky collide
Throw me over the edge and let my spirit glide
Throw me over the edge and let my spirit glide
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Teddy Salad
- Posts: 205
- Joined: Thu Mar 08, 2007 7:05 am
- Location: Colorado
Great reports and pix jmq. We have been to Kauai 3 times and are planning on going next February as it has now been over 10 years since we have been there. Way too long.
How was the swimming at Lumaha'i? I've heard it is pretty dangerous, probably safer in the summer than the winter since it's on the north shore. Gorgeous beach though and it looks like it was pretty much deserted.
Love those Kalalau trail pictures. One of the most beautiful hikes in the world, but kind of tough going as you said.
How was the swimming at Lumaha'i? I've heard it is pretty dangerous, probably safer in the summer than the winter since it's on the north shore. Gorgeous beach though and it looks like it was pretty much deserted.
Love those Kalalau trail pictures. One of the most beautiful hikes in the world, but kind of tough going as you said.
Great photos! We are going next week and this is getting us really excited!
Question about the hike. We are plannning to go from the start of the trail to the beach and back. Not to the waterfall. We won't be in a rush and don't mind if it takes a while. We've hiked a fair amount in St. John and Maui, in decent shape but not fantastic. We will have our two girls with us, 11 and 14. They are pretty resilient.
Can you give me a St. John hike/trail that you might consider equal in difficulty? We have hiked Rams Head, Lind Point, and a few of the smaller trails.
If you have been to Maui we went on the one in Hana up to the waterfall, which was 4 miles, fairly strenuous but not terrible.
Any comparison info would be really helpful.
Question about the hike. We are plannning to go from the start of the trail to the beach and back. Not to the waterfall. We won't be in a rush and don't mind if it takes a while. We've hiked a fair amount in St. John and Maui, in decent shape but not fantastic. We will have our two girls with us, 11 and 14. They are pretty resilient.
Can you give me a St. John hike/trail that you might consider equal in difficulty? We have hiked Rams Head, Lind Point, and a few of the smaller trails.
If you have been to Maui we went on the one in Hana up to the waterfall, which was 4 miles, fairly strenuous but not terrible.
Any comparison info would be really helpful.
"Sponges grow in the ocean...I wonder how much deeper it would be if that didn't happen."
Thanks!djmom wrote:Great photos! We are going next week and this is getting us really excited!
Question about the hike. We are plannning to go from the start of the trail to the beach and back. Not to the waterfall. We won't be in a rush and don't mind if it takes a while. We've hiked a fair amount in St. John and Maui, in decent shape but not fantastic. We will have our two girls with us, 11 and 14. They are pretty resilient.
Can you give me a St. John hike/trail that you might consider equal in difficulty? We have hiked Rams Head, Lind Point, and a few of the smaller trails.
If you have been to Maui we went on the one in Hana up to the waterfall, which was 4 miles, fairly strenuous but not terrible.
Any comparison info would be really helpful.
Have not been to Mauai and ironically, we have never hiked any of those trails on STJ.
Fairly strenuous would be a good description of this trail, and as noted, mentally "strenuous" too because of the careful foot placement required over slippery rocks and roots in several of the ascending or descending parts of the trail. Sandals or open toed Tevas would not be the best choice for footwear on this hike - too easy to stub a toe. As a crew, we can walk all day long, but there were serious hikers on this trail that practically skip along pretty well and probably laugh at us non-hikers.
That said, if conditions turn unfavorable or you start to experience some mutiny among the crew, dont feel bad about turning around when that beach comes into view as you start to descend towards it - you've already seen the best that the trail has to offer. Bring plenty of water and expect multiple weather changes.
Oh, and we expect at least a quickie trip report and some photos when you return, unlike some other forum members who have also been to Kauai recently but have not yet shared much about it (hint hint) - unlike me who shares too much
When we come to place where the sea and the sky collide
Throw me over the edge and let my spirit glide
Throw me over the edge and let my spirit glide
That beach is famous because its where Mitzi Gaynor washed that man right out of her hair in the classic Kauai made movie South Pacific in 1957 (!)Teddy Salad wrote: How was the swimming at Lumaha'i? I've heard it is pretty dangerous, probably safer in the summer than the winter since it's on the north shore. Gorgeous beach though and it looks like it was pretty much deserted.
The lava formation that juts out from the right (east) side of the beach is a sort of natural jetty that creates a small but safer swimming area, although I can image that during times of bigger surf that waves would just crash over that too.
Kauai is a place to respect the ocean any time of the year. There was an idiot in the water showing off for his girlfriend at Hanakapi Beach that is at 2 mile mark of the Kalalau Trail. He looked pretty clueless and is the reason why there is a rough made sign at the beach with hash marks on it noting how many people have drowned there.
When we come to place where the sea and the sky collide
Throw me over the edge and let my spirit glide
Throw me over the edge and let my spirit glide
I continue to enjoy your reports and photos so much.
I could live out my life on the north shore without a complaint.
We have many of the same photos, of course. I'd imagine that most every visitor does. I love being in Hanalei. The church in Hanalei, the Hanalei Valley overlooks. I've had both of those as desktops--also Hanalei Bay, Waimea Canyon and the Kalalau trail. My wife started to become a bit baffled that I wanted to stop every time we'd pass the overlook at Princeville, but the light and the clouds were always different. And I really love the road up the valley along the taro fields. I have some shots of the fields with a lot of egrets and a rainbow. I saw more rainbows on Kauai than I seen anywhere.
My most photographed spots were on the Kalalau trail and the hike into Waimea canyon. Both the coastline and the mountains along the Kalalau trail thrilled me. I also took a good number of shots of Hanalei Bay and the Hanalei Valley overlook. I also really love shots taken from the water back to the beach and mountains. I have a bunch from Tunnels and Ke'e that I marvel at. Is that a real place? Is it on earth?
On our first trip we took the Kalalau hike up to the falls, then stopped at the beach for a while. On our second trip we passed on the falls and went down to the beach. I do like being on that beach. The things that I think I would always want to do, no matter how many times we'd go there would be the Kalalau trail and Waimea canyon hikes. And I'd want to spend a good chunk of time at Hanalei Bay (at different times of day). We made a point of being outside somewhere every day for the sunset. Dinner had to come before or after. There was nothing going on at that time of day that was more important than being in position to appreciate the sunset. Got a lot of sunset photos, too. (If you're ever in Carmel, the beach at sunset is marvelous.)
And I certainly agree that on Kauai the ocean must be respected at all times. And the ocean at certain beaches, at least during certain seasons, is a place that humans shouldn't venture. There are more drownings on Kauai than in the VI. Having only been to Kauai in September, I can't imagine how different I would find it in winter. Kauai is more dramatic, more spectacular and has greater risks than the VI.
These reports have refreshed memories and whetted my appetite. We decided we should see more of the parks in the west and southwest before we go off to the tropics again, but as I look at the photos, I don't really remember why we would have decided that.
I could live out my life on the north shore without a complaint.
We have many of the same photos, of course. I'd imagine that most every visitor does. I love being in Hanalei. The church in Hanalei, the Hanalei Valley overlooks. I've had both of those as desktops--also Hanalei Bay, Waimea Canyon and the Kalalau trail. My wife started to become a bit baffled that I wanted to stop every time we'd pass the overlook at Princeville, but the light and the clouds were always different. And I really love the road up the valley along the taro fields. I have some shots of the fields with a lot of egrets and a rainbow. I saw more rainbows on Kauai than I seen anywhere.
My most photographed spots were on the Kalalau trail and the hike into Waimea canyon. Both the coastline and the mountains along the Kalalau trail thrilled me. I also took a good number of shots of Hanalei Bay and the Hanalei Valley overlook. I also really love shots taken from the water back to the beach and mountains. I have a bunch from Tunnels and Ke'e that I marvel at. Is that a real place? Is it on earth?
On our first trip we took the Kalalau hike up to the falls, then stopped at the beach for a while. On our second trip we passed on the falls and went down to the beach. I do like being on that beach. The things that I think I would always want to do, no matter how many times we'd go there would be the Kalalau trail and Waimea canyon hikes. And I'd want to spend a good chunk of time at Hanalei Bay (at different times of day). We made a point of being outside somewhere every day for the sunset. Dinner had to come before or after. There was nothing going on at that time of day that was more important than being in position to appreciate the sunset. Got a lot of sunset photos, too. (If you're ever in Carmel, the beach at sunset is marvelous.)
And I certainly agree that on Kauai the ocean must be respected at all times. And the ocean at certain beaches, at least during certain seasons, is a place that humans shouldn't venture. There are more drownings on Kauai than in the VI. Having only been to Kauai in September, I can't imagine how different I would find it in winter. Kauai is more dramatic, more spectacular and has greater risks than the VI.
These reports have refreshed memories and whetted my appetite. We decided we should see more of the parks in the west and southwest before we go off to the tropics again, but as I look at the photos, I don't really remember why we would have decided that.
I'll definitely try to do a trip report! We decided we will just take a stab at the trails and we can always turn back.
The risks on Hawaii take a little of the fun away from me (mom). The last time I remember being pretty worried several times with the heights and ledges. We saw a lady totally destroy her ankle, then again, that was on stairs. I guess the key is watch every step you take, which can be hard with the stunning scenery.
When we went to Paris last year I remember being totally relaxed, way more than Hawaii or even St. John. That top of Rams Head scared the crap out of me. I don't like cliffs! Hopefully with the kids older I will worry a little less this time.
The risks on Hawaii take a little of the fun away from me (mom). The last time I remember being pretty worried several times with the heights and ledges. We saw a lady totally destroy her ankle, then again, that was on stairs. I guess the key is watch every step you take, which can be hard with the stunning scenery.
When we went to Paris last year I remember being totally relaxed, way more than Hawaii or even St. John. That top of Rams Head scared the crap out of me. I don't like cliffs!
Hopefully with the kids older I will worry a little less this time."Sponges grow in the ocean...I wonder how much deeper it would be if that didn't happen."
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Teddy Salad
- Posts: 205
- Joined: Thu Mar 08, 2007 7:05 am
- Location: Colorado
djmom - The hike to Hanakapiai Falls is more strenuous than Ram Head. I would roughly equate it to doing the Reef Bay hike down and back distancewise but it has more ups and downs than the Reef Bay hike which is pretty much downhill all the way down and uphill all the way back.
Just take it slow and bring lots of water. Do it on a day with no rain if possible. The rain will make the rocks even slicker. Wear good hiking shoes or boots.
Just take it slow and bring lots of water. Do it on a day with no rain if possible. The rain will make the rocks even slicker. Wear good hiking shoes or boots.