Trip report: 9 more days in paradise

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liamsaunt
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Joined: Mon Aug 07, 2006 4:08 pm

Trip report: 9 more days in paradise

Post by liamsaunt »

Greetings forum friends. John and I recently had the privilege of spending eight more nights in our favorite spot away from home. This was kind of a last minute trip and different from ones I have reported on in the past. As some of you already know, I was diagnosed with cancer last fall. I am not going to bore you with all of the details of that saga. Thankfully I can report that my treatment was successful, I am doing much better now, and my long term prognosis is excellent. This trip was my reward for getting through the surgery and chemotherapy.

Because I am still building my strength back, we did not do nearly as much as we normally would while visiting the island. Some days we did not snorkel at all (shocking I know!) We only hiked once. Basically, we spent a lot of time sleeping, reading on the beach and eating food with the occasional snorkel adventure. We are coming back this summer for two weeks and that should result in a much more action-packed and varied report. But here is what we did this time…

Where we stayed: We split our stay between Caneel Bay and Gallows Point. At Caneel Bay we stayed on Scott Beach for the first time. I was surprised to find that the rooms here are smaller than anywhere else on the property (at least in the categories I have stayed in, we have never done courtside or garden view). The room itself was perfectly fine and comfortable, just smaller. The view from the room was great and you could walk right out on to the beach.

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This was our 13th stay at Caneel so we were surprised to find a card in the room welcoming us for our first stay. (What’s up with that?) I will also admit that we were disappointed that the complimentary bottle of champagne that has been in the room upon arrival on prior stays was AWOL. Of course we remedied that by buying a bottle from the bar to take back to the room later in our stay so maybe those Caneel folks know what they are doing haha.

We went for a quick swim before dinner

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And then we had dinner at Zozos. Zozos’ move to the Sugar Mill is one of the best things to happen to Caneel in a long time, in my opinion. The Sugar Mill setting has always been amazing, but the food in its prior incarnations has always been mediocre to terrible. If anything, Zozos is better than it was in its prior location! We ended up eating here three times over the five nights we were at Caneel. So, we ate…antipasto for two to start.

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John had a Caribbean lobster tail:

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I had red snapper

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These were both specials, not from the regular menu. No dessert. Zozo’s sunset:

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Day two

Breakfast at the Caneel Beach Terrace is always a treat. You can basically get whatever you want. And the view is lovely:

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We spent the day on Scott Beach. It is so quiet and peaceful here:

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No snorkeling. There was an undertow, unusual for Scott, and I was tired from traveling the day before.

That night we went down to the Terrace for sushi and the sunset. I like to sit on the upper terrace for better views. We had some drinks with the sunset:

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We ate a lot of sushi on this trip and it was all pretty fantastic. Spicy bite tuna:

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Albacore turadito:

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Tuna poke:

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Moki roll:

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Tuna crunch roll:

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I am not sure how we managed to eat all of that food, but we did

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Day three

Same thing as before, breakfast at the Terrace

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Back to Scott Beach. We even sat in the same chairs every day (don’t worry, there is some variety coming up in this report, I promise!)

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We did our first snorkel of the trip, heading along Scott past Paradise, around Cottage Point, and then to Caneel’s public beach. A couple of sightings along the way:

Trumpetfish:

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The smallest and fuzziest flounder I have ever seen. It was maybe 2 inches long:

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We found an octopus on Caneel’s main beach too, but it was in its cave and not coming out so no picture. I meant to go back and try again later but we never made it back to Caneel’s main beach.

That night we had dinner at Zozos again. We had a nice table on the rail again.

Beet and goat cheese ravioli with pickled beet and arugula salad:

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Proscuitto-wrapped cambozola cheese with blackberries:

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John had the shrimp with corn risotto:

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I had the pistachio mahi. Delicious, but I forgot to take a picture.

We split the key lime panna cotta for dessert. Neither of us really liked this, but we are not big dessert people:

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Another great sunset:

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Day four

More of the usual. Breakfast, Scott Beach, swimming, snorkeling (I was being lazy and did not even bring my camera so no pictures). We stayed on the beach until 4 and got cleaned up for dinner. We had every intention of going in to town for dinner at Fatty Crab but, well, you know. We always talk about “villa gravity” here. John and I had a bad case of “Caneel gravity.” Since we did not actually do much today, I will share some pictures of things we saw while walking around the resort:

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Too lazy to go in to town, we ended up back at the Terrace for more sushi. Crab and tuna timbale:

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Sushi burrito:

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Hawaiian roll:

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Caviar roll:

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Another lovely evening

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Day five

We spent the whole day doing the usual lazing on the beach, swimming, and reading. Same beach, same beach chairs ;-)

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We had dinner at Zozos (again)

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Not a lot of pictures tonight, but we had a caprese salad from the specials menu, the mushroom pappradelle, and the swordfish. All tasty Swordfsh:.

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Post-dinner relaxation on the upper terrace:

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Day six. Moving day. We packed up and hiked the Turtle Bay trail.

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Then headed to Gallows. Our room was ready on arrival which was nice. We were in 9D this time, not my favorite as it overlooks the pool, but I will still take it! View from the balcony of our unit:

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We went in to town for lunch at Waterfront Bistro.

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I’ve been feeling kind of “meh” about Waterfront Bistro lately. Love the view

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The food is only OK. It looks pretty but the taste is lacking something. Just my opinion of course! Maybe I should try it for dinner sometime. We keep coming back out of habit, I think. Curried chicken salad:

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Tuna tacos:

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After lunch we stopped in to St. John Spice but Ruth and Ron were not working today. They were home with their dog Curly Spice, who had been badly attacked by a very bad dog in their neighborhood that is allowed to roam around without a leash. We ran in to the McKibbens (eagleraylover and augie on this forum) and made plans to meet up at the Woody’s block party the next evening.

We headed back to Gallows to snorkel Frank Bay. This is usually a pretty good snorkel.

Honeycomb cowfish:
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John fish:

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Four-eyed butterflyfish:

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Pair of banded butterflyfish

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For dinner we went to La Tapa.

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By the time we got our food it was too dark for pictures but we enjoyed everything. We shared langoustines and salt cod cakes, then had a piece of tuna and some halibut. Main course portions are a lot larger than I remember. Next time I would share one with John.

Back to Gallows for stargazing and another early night’s sleep.

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Day seven

We had originally planned to just stick around Gallows, but all this relaxing had finally taken its toll and I was ready to get out and DO something. The gift shop at Gallows arranged a jeep for us through Cool Breeze. Cool Breeze even came up to Gallows to get us. We were told they were giving us a small vehicle but for whatever reason we ended up with a four-door Wrangler. More room for us and all our gear I guess.

It was early so we decided to beat the crowds that would be heading to Waterlemon later. When we arrived we were the second car in the parking lot. I was tempted to stop and do the drift snorkel, but we decided to keep on going out to the cay.

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My trip reports usually have a vent about something and here is the vent for this report. When we got out to the rocky area where you put it to head to the cay, there was trash everywhere! Snack bags, beer cans, Ziploc bags, soda cans, plastic shopping bags, bags that people had put their trash into and then just dumped on the ground. There was a LOT of trash. What is wrong with people? Are they so lazy they can’t be bothered to hump out one little tiny sandwich-sized bag of their trash? Seriously. These must be the same people who dump their Dunkin Donuts bags and coffee cups onto the ground in my commuter rail parking lot even though there are trash cans ALL AROUND THE LOT. When we come back this summer I am going to bring a bag and some plastic gloves and out there and clean up after these messy people who obviously don’t give a crap about the island. Of course if nobody else bothers to do that before I get back the trash might be piled up higher than the top of the Johnny Horn trail. PICK UP AFTER YOURSELVES PEOPLE.

Ahem. Moving on…

So, the snorkel was really nice. No current to deal with really. Here are some of our sightings:

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We left around noon (perfect timing because there were TONS of people coming in on the trail as we were coming out). All that snorkeling made us hungry, so I asked John to pilot the jeep to Miss Lucy’s. I had been reading about problems with service on the forum, and was a little nervous about what we would find, but I just love the setting so much that I wanted to try and go anyway. I will also admit that I did not tell John about said problems, heheh. Luckily, our waitress was just fine. We did wait about 10 minutes for her to come and take our drink order, but after that everything moved like clockwork. The food came out promptly, and she was around to clear and offer refills etc.

Enjoying the view:

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Kallaloo soup with crab:

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Grouper reuben:

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Crunch fish sandwich:

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The usual chickens were around but they did not come to our table at first. We had some different meal companions today. This one was content to sit under the table:

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This one was sneaky. It jumped up on my lap and sat there for a bit. Then it jumped up on the table, grabbed a French fry, and left.

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That of course started the chickens going. They all came over in a group and started pecking at the orange cat. The orange cat ran away and the chickens chased after it, all the way around the building! It was a very odd (and funny!) reversal of the usual roles.

After lunch we headed to Cinnamon Bay

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This picture does not show it, but the surf was really up. There were lots of local kids boogie boarding and surfing. We saw people get knocked over a bunch of times. Not ideal swimming conditions. It was pretty though!

That night we went in to town for the Woody’s gathering. We met up with augie at Cruz Bay Landing (that place looks pretty neat, I want to get back and try their food this summer) and eventually headed over to the gathering. It was pretty crowded. I only have camera phone pictures but this gives you a sense:

At the beginning of the evening:

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A little later on:

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A couple other forum members showed up eventually: shoemaker38 and his group and the couple who own Tesori (sorry, I forget their forum names). We hung around for a bit and enjoyed the live music but eventually decided it was (surprise) time to eat! So we said our goodbyes and headed off in search of food. We tried to go to Rhumblines but it was absolutely packed. We did not even ask how long the wait for a table was. We ended up at Fatty Crab. No pictures because it was very dark by then. We loved the fish fry sliders and the roasted mahi with rice noodles. The Indonesian fried rice was OK, not great. Finally, for dessert we had the coconut cardamom panna cotta, which is my favorite dessert on island.

After all the excitement earlier, it was time to head back to Gallows and go to bed!

Day eight

Last full day 

We woke up to an absolute deluge! Luckily, the rain stopped by 9:30 or so and we were able to get out and have some fun. We drove out on the North Shore Road, debating the whole way where to go. It finally came down to Maho or
Francis. Since we are staying on Francis Beach this summer, we went with Maho. We were some of the first people on the beach.

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Of course we went snorkeling:

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You can see the remains of Maho Camps in this picture:

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When we got back to the beach we found that it had gotten quite crowded and noisy, so we decided to pack up and head to lunch at Shipwreck Landing. There were great breezes. I had a mango bbq shrimp quesadilla and John got the last order of tuna tacos:

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He enjoyed these tacos much more than the ones he had at Waterfront Bistro.

We spent the late afternoon relaxing at Gallows

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And then headed in to town to do some shopping. John had said he would buy me a piece of jewelry of my choosing to commemorate the trip, and I had seen a bracelet in the window of one of the shops that I liked. It turned out to be a lot more money than I thought it would be! John said he would still buy it for me, but I suggested that instead he use that money to start planning a trip back to the island for next January. See, I am tricky like that ;-)

We headed up the hill for our final dinner at Asolare. We had cocktails to start. John had the one on the left. I can’t remember what it is called even though I have had it before. Mine is on the right. It is a martini with local honey. You will notice that it is almost full. That is because it was REALLY strong! Holy cow, I could not drink much of it at all. John was happy to finish it for me.

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Asolare view:

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And the food. Appetizers of snapper seveche and tuna roll:
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The seveche was excellent. The rice in the roll was mushy.

Corvina (tasty):

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Tuna (very good):

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Day nine

Packed up and headed in to town to return the jeep and visit with Ron at St. John Spice. We had decided to take the Caneel ferry over to STT, so after checking out of Gallows we taxied over there and hung out up on the roof terrace taking in the view and, of course, eating sushi.

Caneel bay beach:

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Tuna poke (again)

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Geisha roll:

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Cracker roll:

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This was a nice way to spend a couple of hours.

Unfortunately, our transport back to the real world eventually arrived:

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And it was time to go. Good bye St. John:

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Until next time, thanks for reading!

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Becky and John
It's like looking in your soup and finding a whole different alphabet.
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pswlrw
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Re: Trip report: 9 more days in paradise

Post by pswlrw »

Becky,

I always enjoy your reports and this one is no exception. But more than that I am so happy to hear that you have made your way through your recent troubles and were able to recharge on St. John.

Paula
Paula

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jimg20
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Re: Trip report: 9 more days in paradise

Post by jimg20 »

“It’s a magic kind of medicine no doctor could provide.” JB

Enough said.

JIM
Man it's like some dream we live down here....

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michigan girls
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Re: Trip report: 9 more days in paradise

Post by michigan girls »

Glad to hear you are doing well.

I agree with you about the coconut cardamom panna cotta being the best dessert on the island. I actually have had dreams about it...
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lprof
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Re: Trip report: 9 more days in paradise

Post by lprof »

So, so good to read of your joyful return to St John and as always, a pleasure to see your photos. Thank you!
... no longer a stranger to paradise
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loria
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Re: Trip report: 9 more days in paradise

Post by loria »

sounds like a wonderful and relaxing trip-- just what you needed!!!!
i am going to have to make the mr take me to zozo's one of these trips!
< leaving on the 22nd of march...but too lame to figure out the ticker thing again!>
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Barb Y
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Re: Trip report: 9 more days in paradise

Post by Barb Y »

I am so very happy to hear that you are doing so well. I can only imagine how badly you needed this trip to STJ. I hope it gave you all you needed and more. Your TR's are always wonderful and this one was right up there even if you felt as if it wasn't one of your most adventurous trips. As always your photos are amazing. I wish you continued good health! Nice way to work next year's trip in :wink: Here's to many more trips to STJ! Be well!
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bdkane
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Re: Trip report: 9 more days in paradise

Post by bdkane »

Yes, I as well wish you continued good health! Thanks so much for taking the time to post... you REALLY make me want to stay at Caneel! looks amazing
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Lovermont
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Re: Trip report: 9 more days in paradise

Post by Lovermont »

The only thing better than one of your Trip Reports, is to know that you're feeling better and on the mend. Looks like it was "just what the doctor ordered!"
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iowaguy
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Re: Trip report: 9 more days in paradise

Post by iowaguy »

Becky----I always love your trip reports and wonderful photos. I love food, so the detailed restaurant reports are a treat for me. Mostly, though, I am just happy that your treatments went well and that you were able to spend some quality time in a place you love so much.
---Jim
PA Girl
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Re: Trip report: 9 more days in paradise

Post by PA Girl »

I am so sorry to hear of your health troubles. Here's to your recovery (insert raising my wine glass in about an hour)! Love the bracelet/trip switcheroo.

Your pictures are better than ever, especially the food porn.
JJShaw
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Re: Trip report: 9 more days in paradise

Post by JJShaw »

I'm glad you are doing better..and I enjoyed (as always) your report..:)
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TheBeatyBunch
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Re: Trip report: 9 more days in paradise

Post by TheBeatyBunch »

Awesome post! Hope you continue your wellness journey! Thank you for the wonderful pictures. We are Sushi lovers and because of your post I have a list of restaurants to visit next week. We have only tried Zero Sushi at the Marketplace.
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Tracy in WI
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Re: Trip report: 9 more days in paradise

Post by Tracy in WI »

Wonderful reporting once again Becky! As has been said so many times, I am so happy you are feeling better and that your prognosis is great!

Loved your food open - sushi is truly like art isn't it? I also loved your sighting of the "John Fish"!! Haven't seen that one in any of my fish ID books.

I'll second your garbage rant - how hard is it to carry out what you bring in?? I've cleaned up Haulover North on a past trip but believe most if that came in with the tide.

Wishing you a wonderful spring!
Tracy, Seaside Properties at Grande Bay
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Teresa_Rae
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Re: Trip report: 9 more days in paradise

Post by Teresa_Rae »

Oh my goodness Becky, I did not know that you've been sick. I'm so sorry to hear that but so glad that things are going better for you now and that you got in some STJ style healing.
Let us live so that when we come to die even the undertaker will be sorry.
- Mark Twain
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