16 more days in paradise, final

[liamsaunt]

part one: http://www.virgin-islands-on-line.com/f ... 62c41224dc

part two: http://www.virgin-islands-on-line.com/f ... hp?t=17526

part three: http://www.virgin-islands-on-line.com/f ... hp?t=17530


Day 13

SUN! We had to go into town to return the jeep to Cool Breeze (an easy, fast, hassle-free process), and do a little shopping. I spent all of my cancelled boat trip day money at Donald Schnell’s studio—he has beautiful things, and he ships fast too—our package was waiting for us when we got home!

Back to Caneel, we headed right over to Scott Beach and jumped in to snorkel. The water was stirred up from all of the rains, but once we made our way out to the reef visibility was good. You can see some of the washed out beach in this photo:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4850651327/" title="Scott beach by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4095/485 ... 97b95c.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Scott beach"></a>

We saw a nurse shark:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4851282918/" title="Scott nurse shark by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4097/485 ... 6ecc34.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Scott nurse shark"></a>

Angelfish:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4855303946/" title="Scott french angelfish by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4082/485 ... 7edc49.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Scott french angelfish"></a>

Turtles:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4858595014/" title="caneel turtle rising 3 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4077/485 ... 7d87a4.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="caneel turtle rising 3"></a>

rays, lots of fish. Red hind:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4850670083/" title="Scott red hind by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4143/485 ... db3ffd.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Scott red hind"></a>

Blue-headed trumpetfish:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4851275284/" title="Scott blue trumpetfish by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4096/485 ... e529dc.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Scott blue trumpetfish"></a>

Squid:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4857974473/" title="caneel squid by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4141/485 ... da03c9.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="caneel squid"></a>

This strange fellow. I think it is a jawfish—not certain of the type:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4855306348/" title="Scott mystery fish (2) by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4097/485 ... 382e70.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="Scott mystery fish (2)"></a>

If you are snorkeling at Scott, you should go all the way over to the right and then out to the boat markers. There is a gorgeous reef out there, just packed with all kinds of corals. However the current is really strong out there. I actually don’t have any photos of the reef because I was too busy swimming against the current to take pictures. It is worth the hard swimming to see it though, it’s absolutely stunning.

Dinner was at Zozos. No photos since we were at the bar and I didn’t want to bother the people around us, but it was delicious as always. I have to get the mahi every time.


Day 14

More sun! Yeah!

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4855299074/" title="Scott beach 3 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4141/485 ... 412747.jpg" width="500" height="371" alt="Scott beach 3"></a>

Today we snorkeled from the left side of Scott Beach along Paradise Beach, around Cottage Point, and up to Caneel’s public beach. Visibility was mixed—at Caneel it was absolutely terrible, but around Cottage Point was good. Found a flounder:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4857970259/" title="caneel flounder by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4118/485 ... d4fb68.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="caneel flounder"></a>

angelfish, grunts:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4857972209/" title="caneel grunts by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4100/485 ... c4bd40.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="caneel grunts"></a>

I don’t have many photos from this snorkel because of all the sediment in the water—at Caneel I could not even see my hand if I stretched it out in front of my face.

Later we walked over to Honeymoon—sad to see that the water was so brown with runoff. We didn’t stay long as it started raining again.

I love the flowers at Caneel:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4857975499/" title="caneel yellow flower 2 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4101/485 ... d57dfd.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="caneel yellow flower 2"></a>


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4857973367/" title="caneel pink flower by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4074/485 ... 9c1bbd.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="caneel pink flower"></a>

We went back to our room and attempted to eat some cheese and crackers on the patio and enjoy our view:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4854613955/" title="7A view by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4122/485 ... bd3cd3.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="7A view"></a>

However, we were accosted by a very determined thief:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4856229653/" title="laughing gull 2 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4119/485 ... f758e3.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="laughing gull 2"></a>

GIVE ME THE CRACKERS AND NOONE GETS HURT!!


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4856230581/" title="laughing gull 5 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4136/485 ... 3538fa.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="laughing gull 5"></a>


Dinner was at Café Roma. We went here for a couple of reasons: I told xislandgirl she could plan one of my meals, and this is what she picked, and also, it was open at 5 PM and we were STARVING, we could not even wait for La Tapa to open at 6.

So. We were the first customers and they were out of the antipasto, so we ordered a small pizza to split to start, thinking the leftovers would be good back at Caneel. Is ordering pizza at Café Roma some kind of …delicate matter? Because I was thrown. The chef came out and said she would not make it for us. The waiter said to her that she WOULD because the other things that were on the menu that we asked about (salads, antipasto, etc) were not available. All at top volume in the dining room while we were sitting right there. Whatever. The pizza came and it was not my kind of pizza. Maybe the chef was psychic. If I had my niece and nephew with me they would have loved this pizza. For me it was too thick of a crust and the sauce had way too much oregano.


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4858585984/" title="cafe roma pizza by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4099/485 ... 132418.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="cafe roma pizza"></a>

Moving on to mains, I guess no one made it clear to me, so now I will make it clear to all of you, that the portions at Café Roma are exceedingly generous. I am talking about 12 ounces of (dried) pasta boiled for each entrée—that’s about five servings of pasta. I ordered an eggplant dish and I think there were two full eggplants in the dish. Photo evidence:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4858585422/" title="cafe roma eggplant pasta by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4115/485 ... 548e29.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="cafe roma eggplant pasta"></a>

I cannot handle that kind of plate. When faced with a plate of food that large, I just lose my appetite. However, my sister recently reminded me that when we were in our early twenties and living together our almost daily dinner for the two of us was an entire box of spaghetti with an entire bottle of Paul Newman’s sockarooini sauce, a whole baguette with butter, and a bottle of red wine. And at the time we each weighed about 100 lbs. Oh for that metabolism and size 2 skirt, now both long gone.

So I conclude that this is THE PLACE to go with young adults and teenagers. Really. They will thank you. Flavors are traditional and portions are teenager sized, and I saw the waitstaff setting up groups of tweens at their own tables, near, but not too near (gross!) to their folks. AND, offering “soda service” the way the adults were getting wine service. It was really cute.


Day 15

After breakfast at the Caneel Beach Terrace (included in our room rate), we headed over to snorkel at Turtle Bay.


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4858632742/" title="turtle bay by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4093/485 ... d2d804.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="turtle bay"></a>

This turned out to be one of the best snorkels of the trip. There is a beautiful reef on the left side, and we saw lots of jacks and palometa:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4858021037/" title="turtle jacks palometa and fry by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4119/485 ... 269088.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="turtle jacks palometa and fry"></a>


AAH! They are coming for me!!

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4858631780/" title="turtle jacks 4 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4116/485 ... 4a61a0.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="turtle jacks 4"></a>

barracuda, trumpetfish, rays:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4850667587/" title="Scott ray by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4135/485 ... 7ef275.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Scott ray"></a>


and best of all a beautiful queen triggerfish.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4858648578/" title="turtle triggerfish by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4074/485 ... a8b5f5.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="turtle triggerfish"></a>

I LOVE this fish and hardly ever see them. This one was not disturbed by us at all—it hhung around for about half an hour:


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4858026467/" title="turtle triggerfish 10 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4078/485 ... 03fb16.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="turtle triggerfish 10"></a>

Later we walked over to Caneel’s Hawksnest beach to find that all of the rooms over there were unoccupied and undergoing renovation. The beach had not been cleaned in quite some time and was heaped with seaweed and rocks. We didn’t stick around, but instead headed back to Scott Beach where we spent the rest of the day lounging on floaties and talking.


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4866953005/" title="Scott side view by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4123/486 ... f9a8da.jpg" width="500" height="332" alt="Scott side view"></a>

More beautiful flowers on Caneel's property:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4858642714/" title="turtle orchid 2 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4139/485 ... 85e190.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="turtle orchid 2"></a>

Dinner was at Asolare and it was delicious

Tuna tartare…I though the sauce was a bit acidic, John loved it:


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4858582230/" title="asolare tuna tartare by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4102/485 ... d8df86.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="asolare tuna tartare"></a>

Other appetizer: cold calamari rings in curry sauce with crispy fried tentacles. Interesting:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4857958499/" title="asolare calamari by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4102/485 ... 85bde6.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="asolare calamari"></a>

John’s tuna entrée, delicious:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4857962091/" title="asolare tuna 2 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4134/485 ... 9f00a1.jpg" width="500" height="320" alt="asolare tuna 2"></a>

My mahi, delicious except for the lentils. I love almost any food but to me lentils taste like dirt. I think I ate a lifetime's worth in college:


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4858580550/" title="asolare mahi by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4117/485 ... c73710.jpg" width="500" height="362" alt="asolare mahi"></a>


Day 16

The saddest day—the day the trip ends.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4850271317/" title="Caneel sunfish by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4075/485 ... 6f37a5.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Caneel sunfish"></a>

Had one last delicious Caneel breakfast and then checked out of the hotel. We always stop and get a drink to go at the Caneel bar:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4857968507/" title="caneel farewell drinks by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4094/485 ... 5551ee.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="caneel farewell drinks"></a>

Do you see that drink on the left? That’s a painkiller. Good lord do not order the painkiller at the Caneel bar unless you want to be completely drunk at customs in the airport (actually, maybe the bartender knew what I was going to be facing when I got there and was trying to prepare me. I took one sip and handed it off to the Caneel boat steward in exchange for watered down rum punch, more my style.

We posed for our walk of woe photo—Caneel style.


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4863752589/" title="caneel gs by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4098/486 ... db03a0.jpg" width="443" height="500" alt="caneel gs"></a>

Then reluctantly got on the ferry:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4858589170/" title="caneel ferry by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4078/485 ... f3669f.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="caneel ferry"></a>

The staff always come to wave goodbye, it makes me sad.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4857971157/" title="caneel goodbye by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4099/485 ... 9198bc.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="caneel goodbye"></a>

But then John said we are coming back soon, resulting in an immediate attitude change:


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4858587910/" title="caneel becky2 by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4080/485 ... 8e56e6.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="caneel becky2"></a>


The airport was chaotic—completely jammed with people waiting to clear customs. It took us about 2.5 hours to make our way through the check in process. We were upgraded to first class again for the flight home, which was nice. This plane even had the seats you could make recline flat, neat!

And I did get one more sunset after all:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4858010745/" title="sky by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4118/485 ... ec26fc.jpg" width="500" height="365" alt="sky"></a>

Final thoughts: The weather was a bummer, no doubt about it. We didn’t get to do many of the snorkels and walks we had planned, and driving in the heavy rain was challenging. Still, the beautiful days were spectacular indeed.

Colibri is a fantastic house. I want to buy it, but lacking the spare $4 million, I guess I’ll have to settle for re-renting it.

I love Caneel Bay. I know some people don’t like it, or don’t think it is worth the price, but I disagree. There is a special feeling at Caneel, different from the rest of the island. It is a beautiful property, the snorkeling is excellent, the staff is kind, and the breakfast is amazing. We are actually considering a Caneel only trip for next summer….we’ll see.

I think that overall the snorkeling is continuing to improve. It seems that the coral is making a comeback. Especially out farther from shore, it is large and healthy. Fish were abundant and diverse at almost every location we went to.

Finally, I always felt completely safe-- at the villa, in town, and at Caneel. St. John is a wonderful place. I can’t wait to come back.

July 2010 favorites list:
Favorite beach: Scott
Favorite dinner: Zozos
Favorite lunch: Ocean Grill
Favorite snorkel: Maho
Favorite snorkel sighting: Triggerfish at Turtle Bay

Until next time….thanks for reading!

Becky and John


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/28539958@N00/4873903910/" title="asolare gs by liamsaunt, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4137/487 ... 0a86_m.jpg" width="240" height="145" alt="asolare gs"></a>

[Xislandgirl]

I love your reports!

I am sorry that Roma wasn't a good suggestion. Those pictures do not represent the Roma that I recall. That crust is way too puffy and there is way too much cheese on that entree.

[bubblybrenda]

Beautiful photos, beautiful food and drinks too.

I gotta agree with the Cafe Roma thing. Only ate there once and never figured out what the rave was about: Seafood pasta which, if I recall correctly, converted to $32 Cdn. for a handful of dried spaghetti and 6 (yes, six!) prawns. I'll never forget that meal because I felt so utterly ripped off.

[Pickle]

Although I really love all your reports, I particularly enjoy reading about your Caneel experiences every time you stay there. Have never stayed at the resort, unfortunately, since it would be a splurge for us. We are hoping "maybe" someday we can manage to stay there. Until then I'll keep visiting Caneel through your beautiful reports.

I get excited when I see Queen Triggerfish, too. I've seen them only at Salt Pond and Blue Cobblestone so far...

Thank you for all the wonderful installments.

[Teresa_Rae]

The open-mouthed fish picture is incredible!!

[Deb58]

Thank you for sharing all of your wonderful reports and pictures. I read all of them, start to finish!

[ccasebolt]

Wonderful report, as always - thoroughly enjoyed! The final entry brightened an otherwise ordinary Monday morning. Thank you!

[toni]

Thanks for taking all the time to write up reports and post pictures-they're really beautiful. It's fun reading what other people do-gives us ideas for future trips

[mbw1024]

That might be your best ending picture yet
Glad you made the most of the weather. Hope you are rewarded for it on your next trip

[sea-nile]

Great reports! It was good seeing you there.
Would you like to come and be our chef in November?

[Pia]

Such a wonderful trip report Becky - thanks so much for taking the time. Sorry about the crappy weather but I'm sure your next trip will be perfect

Pia

[Rachelle & Joe]

Have so enjoyed your TR's ! Your Gorgeous photo's never dissapoint Fabulous ! Thnak You !

[mindehankins]

Thanks for the reports, Becky!
Love the pic of the Jack! It looks like he's coming to have a word with you....

[AnyTing]

Loved it!

[Diana2]

Wonderful trip report as usual. The Queen Triggerfish is probably my favorite one to find also. I usually find her out by the rocks at Salt Pond but next year I'll look at Turtle Beach at Caneel. The Blueheaded Trumpet Fish and the Jaw Fish are also great finds. Are you the one who finds all these awesome fish or is John equally as good at snorkeling? I think the secret is going slowly. I always have to slow myself down or I miss seeing the best things.